Welcome to
Black Diamond
Portuguese Water Dogs!
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Under Mentorship of CnSand(reg)
About the PWD
The following information and photos have been generously shared by Kris Cofiell of CnSand(reg) Portuguese Water Dogs.
Known for centuries along Portugal’s coast, this seafaring breed was prized by fishermen for a spirited, yet obedient nature, and a robust, medium build that allowed for a full day’s work in and out of the water. The Portuguese Water Dog is a swimmer and diver of exceptional ability and stamina, who aided his master at sea by retrieving broken nets, herding schools of fish, and carrying messages between boats and to shore. He is a loyal companion and alert guard. This highly intelligent utilitarian breed is distinguished by two coat types, either curly or wavy; an impressive head, well-knit body, and a powerful, thickly based tail, carried gallantly or used purposefully as a rudder. The Portuguese Water Dog provides an indelible impression of strength, spirit, and soundness.
Physical Appearance
Coat Type description from the AKC Standard: A profuse, thickly planted coat of strong, healthy hair, covering the whole body evenly, except where the forearm meets the brisket and in the groin area, where it is thinner. No undercoat, mane or ruff. There are two varieties of coat:
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Curly-Compact, cylindrical curls, somewhat lusterless. The hair on the ears is sometimes wavy.
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Wavy-Falling gently in waves, not curls, and with a slight sheen.
Please note that some PWD coats are difficult to determine if they are curly or wavy. Some may appear quite wavy as a puppy, yet grow up to have a significant amount of curl.
Curly
Curly
Curly Lion Clip
Wavy
Wavy
Wavy Lion Clip
Photos are of CnSand Portuguese Water Dogs
Color
Black, white, and various tones of brown; also combinations of black or brown with white. A white coat does not imply albinism provided that the nose, mouth, and eyelids are black. In animals with black, white, or black and white coats, the skin is decidedly bluish.
Please note: In the United States we refer to the markings on a dog as follows:
Solid-Mostly one color (black or brown) with minimal markings (less then 5% or so)
Irish Marked- Black or Brown with more significant white markings. Often found on feet/legs (socks), chest (bib), and chin/muzzle.
Heavily Irish Marked-Black or Brown with significant white markings to include a partial or full collar (circle around neck), full chest, socks on front and rear legs, white on muzzle and sometimes top of head, and white tip on the tail.
Parti Color (or Piebald)- A Parti Color PWD is often referred to as having more white then black or brown. it can be a pretty even 50/50 or extreme where the majority of the dog is white with small black or brown markings. The white markings can be a relatively solid white, or they can having ticking (flecks of black or brown) or double ticking (referred to in North America as “Silver or Brown fox”).
**** Please note: Color or markings on a puppy should NEVER determine your decision to get/or not get a puppy. The most important part is that the temperament is suitable for your family and that the breeder is one you trust. Also color or markings should NEVER determine the price for a puppy.
Irish, Parti, Solid
Heavy Irish, almost Parti
Parti, wavy in Lion Trim
Heavy Irish
L to R: Solid Brown, Parti, Solid Black,
Heavy Irish, Solid Black
Both heavy Irish, but left is also Silver Fox
As the puppy on the left ages, the silver fox (or brown fox on brown dogs) areas will continue to darken and in some cases almost appear to be solid black/brown in color. The dog below is the puppy on the left above, but at 1 year old.
All three dogs are Brown. This truly demonstrates the standard which states “various tones of brown”. There is no way to determine as a young puppy which brown the dog will mature into.
Bred by Abadessan, Sweden
Photos are of CnSand Portuguese Water Dogs
Haircuts
Two clips are acceptable for the show ring:
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(1) Lion Clip--As soon as the coat grows long, the middle part and hindquarters, as well as the muzzle, are clipped. The hair at the end of the tail is left at full length.
(2) Retriever Clip--In order to give a natural appearance and a smooth unbroken line, the entire coat is scissored or clipped to follow the outline of the dog, leaving a short blanket of coat no longer than one inch in length. The hair at the end of the tail is left at full length.
No discrimination will be made against the correct presentation of a dog in either Lion Clip or Retriever Clip.
Please note: To those new to the PWD, that when viewing a PWD in a lion trim, no matter how beautiful the dog’s muzzle is, it will look smaller/pointier then a PWD in a retriever trim. It is the illusion of the lack of hair in the lion and the presence of hair in the retriever.
Photos are of CnSand Portuguese Water Dogs
Size, Proportion, & Substance
Size (Height at the withers)--Males, 20 to 23 inches. The ideal is 22 inches. Females, 17 to 21 inches. The ideal is 19 inches.
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Weight-For males, 42 to 60 pounds; for females, 35 to 50 pounds.
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Proportion--Off square; slightly longer than tall when measured from prosternum to rearmost point of the buttocks, and from withers to ground.
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Substance-Strong, substantial bone; well developed, neither refined nor coarse, and a solidly built, muscular body.
Photos are of CnSand Portuguese Water Dogs
Health Info
Portuguese Water Dog Breeders are often noted for their vigilance when addressing health problems. The PWD has a number of health concerns including: Progressive Retinal Atrophy (prcd-PRA), Hip Dysplasia (HD), Juvenile Dilated Cardiomyopathy (JDCM), Storage Disease (GM-1 Gagliosidosis), Chondrodystrophy-Intervertebral Disc Disease (CDDY/IVDD Mutation), Addison’s Disease, Cancer, and Irritable Bowel Disease (IBD). As well as the cosmetic issue known as Improper Coat. Below is a description of each condition as well as a health test listed where available.
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Please visit the following link at fellow breeder and Veterinarian Cindy O’Connor, DVM, DACT website. The linked article clearly explains the importance of the intelligent use of genetic testing.
Progressive Retinal Atrophy (prcd-PRA): PRA (PRCD version) is a genetic disease that causes late onset, slowly progressive loss of sight. PRA is inherited recessively. The Optigen test is a direct gene test, thus it reveals the status of the dog as Normal (or Clear), Carrier, and Affected. This test allows us to use all dogs in our gene pool because by using this test we can guarantee that we will never again produce a puppy affected with PRA. Seeing as PRCD PRA is a simple recessive we can breed a dog who is tested clear of PRA to a dog who is clear, carrier, affected, or untested without producing an affected puppy.
CERF (Canine Eye Registration Foundation) and OFA ECR Number: PWD Breeders now have two options when it comes to Yearly Eye Certification. Both use a Veterinary Ophthalmologist who does a specific eye exam used to determine anomalies in the eye. These issues could be cataracts, Retinal Dysplasia, Distichiasis, and many more issue both hereditary and acquired.
Storage Disease (GM-1 Gangliosidosis): Like PRA, Storage Disease is a simple recessive. A dog affected with Storage Disease will show neurological deterioration and will likely die by 6 to 8 months of age. The DNA test, previously offered through NYU, is now available through Optigen.
Juvenile Dilated Cardiomyopathy (JDCM): JDCM is seen in puppies from approximately 2 weeks to 25 weeks. Upon autopsy a common thread of pneumonia, congestion of lungs and liver, and thickening of the walls of the heart is found. JDCM is a simple recessive (just like PRA and GM-1) thus a direct gene test was developed at the University of Pennsylvania. The test reveals the status of the dog as Normal (or Clear), or Carrier. This test allows us to use all dogs in our gene pool because by using this test we can guarantee that we will never again produce a puppy affected with JDCM. Seeing as JDCM is a simple recessive we can breed a dog who is tested clear of JDCM to a dog who is clear, carrier, or untested without producing an affected puppy.
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Hip Dysplasia (HD): is a disorder of the hip joints that affects many dog breeds of varying sizes. The inheritance of HD is quite complex. Unlike PRA, Storage Disease, and JDCM, which are simple recessive diseases, HD is polygenetic. A polygenetic disease involves many genes and environmental factors that add up to a dog being affected by HD. A conscientious breeder uses both hip x-ray and pedigree study to determine a dog’s suitability for inclusion in a breeding program. Two methods are currently in use in the United States for determining hip status. The first and most widely used is called OFA. After a dog has turned two a Veterinarian does a specific X-Ray that is then submitted to The Orthopedic Foundation for Animals (OFA) for evaluation by their panel of Veterinarians. This evaluation is subjective. The results can vary according to the quality of the X-Ray submitted. The dog’s hip status is rated using Excellent, Good, and Fair for dogs that do not exhibit HD, and Mild, Moderate, and Severe for dogs that are dysplastic. Another method of Hip Dysplasia detection is utilized by PENNHip. The PENNHip evaluation is done by a Veterinarian specifically trained in the PENNHip protocol. The PENNHip mission is to develop and apply evidence-based technology to direct appropriate breeding strategies aimed at reducing in frequency and severity the osteoarthritis of HD. A PENNHip evaluation can be done on dogs 16 weeks of age and older. Even with the most selective breeding, pedigree research, attention to nutrition, HD can be produced.
Addison’s Disease (Hypoadrenocorticism): Addison’s disease results from the autoimmune destruction of the adrenal gland. It’s vague symptoms of lethargy, depression, weakness, and vomiting usually appear at around four years old. Though cases in younger dogs and older dogs have been reported. Addison’s Disease is often called “The Great Mimicker” as the symptoms are often vague and can be representative of so many other illnesses and diseases. Unfortunately it does not appear that Addison’s is the result of a simple recessive gene. Additional genetic factors may be involved. At this time it is believed to be familial (running in families). Once diagnosed (usually after an Addisonian Crisis) the disease is very treatable and once managed the dogs live long healthy lives with monthly injection of Percorten-V, as well as a regimen of prednisone (especially around times of stress).
Cancer: Studies have not truly identified the PWD as having a higher incidence of cancer then the normal dog population, though there i some indication they may be. The PWDCA and PWD Foundation are supporting the research of Dr. Jamie Modiano at the University of Minnesota. A leader in the study of canine cancers and their prevention, detection, and treatment.
Patent Ductus Arteriosus (PDA): Is a birth defect of the heart. It is caused by incomplete changes in the heart’s circulation when a dog is born. The Ductus Arteriosus is an important blood vessel that ensures that blood does not go to the lungs unnecessarily as the fetus is developing in the uterus. During the first few hours after birth this blood vessel naturally closes off. In dogs with a PDA this vessel remains open. This is a very serious and life threatening condition if not surgically repaired. Some PDA puppies are smaller then the rest of the litter while others seem perfectly normal. Most PDA cases are initially diagnosed when a heart murmur is detected. PDA murmurs produce a very distinctive sound. The puppy is then typically brought in for an ECG and an ultrasound to confirm the diagnosis. An untreated PDA is not usually compatible with having a normal lifespan unless the PDA is corrected surgically. Most puppies treated successfully via either a Thoracatomy or a Cardiac catheter-based occlusion go on to live a normal lifespan.
Chondrodystrophy-Intervertebral Disc Disease (CDDY/IVDD Mutation): Some PWDs carry a mutation causing Chondrodystrophy (CDDY). Presence of this mutation results in premature aging of a dog's intervertebral discs as well as phenotypic changes such as shortened legs. CDDY can be identified with a simple cheek swab for DNA. The PWDCA is hoping to quantify the presence of CDDY in our breed and later study the effects it may have on the health of our dogs.
Inflammatory Bowel Disease (IBD): IBD has been reported in the PWD. The disease is characterized by frequent diarrhea and other gastrointestinal symptoms. The mode of inheritance has not been determined.
Improper Coat (IC): Please note that IC is NOT a health condition. I have included it here as there is a test available through Optigen to test a dog’s carrier status. A dog affected by IC has a naturally patterned coat where the hair on the face, front of legs and feet is naturally short. Hair around the neck and withers is longer. These dogs resemble a flat coat or curly coated retriever. They do shed, some more than others. An IC puppy can be identified by a practiced eye as early as three weeks old, though by 7 weeks it is very clear that a dog has an improper coat. IC is a simple recessive. thus a dog tested Clear will not produce a puppy with IC regardless of the other parent’s status.
*Please note that Improper Coat is different from “Hairloss”. A dog with Hairloss has dry, brittle hair which ultimately falls out leaving large bald areas. The mode of inheritance is unknown, though it has been found to occur more frequently in Curly to Curly Breedings as opposed to Curly to Wavy or Wavy to Wavy breedings. Hairloss is a significant and heartbreaking condition. Often it is not truly recognized until the dog begins to exhibit balding (usually starts around the eyes and flank regions). The dogs can go through times of having an almost normal covering of hair to extensive balding. In hindsight breeders or owners recall the puppy having dry and brittle curly hair, as well as, difficulty growing and maintaining coat. Again, Hairloss is often said to be significantly linked to the practice of breeding Curly to Curly.
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The above issues certainly do seem like a daunting list of potential health issues. The most important thing to understand is that the large majority of PWD breeders are working hard to control and/or eliminate as many health issues as possible. Responsible breeders look at the whole dog, the breadth and depth of their pedigree, when attempting to ascertain what may be a good breeding to undertake. Any breeder who tells you their dog “is clear for everything” absolutely has not looked past the 5 or so Health Tests typically used by the PWD community. There are a multitude of factors that a breeder must weigh when deciding, first, to include a dog in their breeding program, and second, what dog would be a good breeding match. These factors include Temperament, Type, AND Health! Even the best laid plans can produce a health issue. Most long time dog breeders will tell you, “If you breed long enough you will ultimately produce it”. Though it is the serious PWD Breeder’s job to recognize the severity and affect of a health issue to ascertain if a dog should be eliminated from a breeding program if they have produced, have relatives that have produced, or are affected by a health issue.
So you want a PWD...what's next!?
The following information has been generously shared by Kris Cofiell of CnSand(reg) Portuguese Water Dogs.
Please note that all PWD breeders and all PWD litters are not equal! Lately, there have been a disturbing number of PWD litters being bred where the parents are under age, and/or without ANY health testing, and/or one or both parents are on AKC Limited registration (a registration that denotes the sire and dam are not to be bred). The “breeders” of these litters have not put any thought into the potential health issues lurking in every pedigree. The quality of the puppy you get and the support you receive is directly correlated to the quality of the sire and dam used and the method by which the breeder raises, socializes, and places the puppies. Buyer Beware!!
Frequently Asked Questions...
How long will it take me to find a PWD for my family? It depends, to simply find a PWD puppy will take between one and six months. The breed is not that rare anymore, though it is certainly not as common as a Labrador Retriever, which has approximately 120,000 puppies registered with the AKC each year. There are now over 1,500 PWD puppies registered each year. The bigger question is how long will it take to find the RIGHT PWD and the RIGHT breeder? That could take anywhere from a few months to a couple years.
How do I find a Portuguese Water Dog breeder? There are a few ways to connect with and meet breeders. My first suggestion is to go to the Portuguese Water Dog Club of America (PWDCA) website (www.pwdca.org). You will find lots of great information on the breed as well as well you will be able to view puppy information. There is also PWDCA breeder referral. The breeder list has names of breeders who have submitted information and paid a fee to be included on the list. While the list is a good starting point, it is important to recognize that the breeders on the list are in no way endorsed by the PWDCA. There are many wonderful breeders who chose not to participate on the PWDCA breeder referral. It is still very much up to you to ask the pertinent questions to ascertain if a breeder is one you would feel comfortable working with. Another way to find out more about the PWD is to go to a dog show. Dog shows are a good opportunity to see quite a few dogs, as most dog shows have between 5 and 20 PWDs entered. Lastly, if you make a connection with a breeder, they’ll often refer you to someone they know who may be geographically closer to you or may have puppies available. Please note that just because you find a breeder’s name on a list or are referred to them by another PWD breeder it is still your responsibility to do your homework!
How do I know if a breeder is reputable? A good breeder should be a member of the national breed club. For PWDs that is the Portuguese Water Dog Club of America. They may also be a member of a local breed or all-breed club. They should be involved in some way in the sport of dogs, showing in conformation, obedience, agility, tracking, water work, etc. They should be happy to allow you to tour their home and kennel and to introduce you to their dogs. They should be able to explain the various health issues and be willing to show you the documented (or send you to a website to view) health testing in their dogs. Go with your gut feeling....if something doesn’t feel right...move on! Avoid breeders who readily speak ill of other PWDCA member breeders. Avoid a breeder who is willing to ship a puppy of YOUR choice (based on photos and reservations) without spending the time to speak to you about the PWD temperament, and health.
How many litters a year does your average breeder have? Most breeders average one or two litters a year. Some may have one every two to three years, while others may have four, five, or even more a year! When a good breeder has a litter their lives change drastically. For the first couple weeks after the pups are born they are rarely able to leave the house so they can keep a close eye on the dam (mother) and her pups. For the next couple weeks a breeder’s job is a bit easier. The pups are a bit hardier and mom takes care of their every need. From that point on the breeder is hard at work caring for and socializing the pups. This includes exposing the pups to different surfaces, noises, situations, and people. As well, it is important that each pup get plenty of individual time. During the 8 to 10 weeks that pups are kept, the breeders outside activities are vastly limited. Besides caring for the dam and the pups, lots of time is spent talking to people on the phone about the breed, and interviewing prospective homes. So as you can see the average breeder dedicates two to three months to a litter (besides the lifelong commitment). If a breeder has many litters a year they are not necessarily to be avoided. As well, if a breeder has many litters it may be difficult for them to offer you follow up assistance and advice. Surely each situation, and breeder is unique. Go with your gut feeling....if something doesn’t feel right...move on!
This is the breeder’s first litter should I consider getting a puppy from them? It depends, every breeder has to have their first litter! If the breeder seems knowledgable about the breed and breeding, has done the health testing, is a member of the PWDCA, AND has a good mentor (who is a long time PWD breeder, and is usually from whom the new breeder got their bitch from), and has the best interest of the breed in mind, they may have the perfect pup for you. If the person is having a litter “to make their money back” or to “teach their children about birth”, or because their dog is “just the best” I would avoid getting a puppy from them. Remember, your dog’s breeder is your best resource when it comes to answers about health or behavioral issues you may have with your puppy. If the breeder is not knowledgable, how can they help you?
I was able to meet the Dam (Mother) but not the Sire (Father), is it customary to meet both? Most breeders use a stud dog that does not belong to them, so unless they have used a local sire, or one owned by (and living with) them, you should not expect to meet the sire. In most situations you should expect to meet the dam. I would be concerned if the breeder owned both Sire and Dam and seemed to breed them together over and over.
How much should I expect to pay for a PWD puppy? Most breeders charge between $3000 and $4000 for a quality PWD puppy. A $3000 pup is not necessarily inferior to a $4000 pup and conversely, a $4000 pup is not necessarily superior to a $3000 pup. Most breeders charge the same price for every puppy, while others price according to “show” or “pet” quality. The price of a puppy should NEVER be the result of what color, coat type (Wavy or Curly) or what markings a puppy has.
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What if I want a puppy of a specific color, coat type, markings, or gender? Certainly, each person is welcome to have a preference for color, markings, coat type, and gender, just realize that these preferences could greatly lengthen the time it takes to locate a puppy. A good breeder is going to try and match the right puppy up to the right home, regardless of those other factors. Coat colors or markings should never change the price of a puppy.
Why does the breeder choose the puppy for me? A good breeder has spent the last 8 to 10 weeks getting to know the puppies. Even within a single litter, temperament can vary from laid back to high drive. The breeder is looking to put the right puppy in the right home based upon what temperament would be most suitable for each family. A family with young children would not be suitable for a dog with a dominant personality, just as a family searching for an obedience or agility prospect would not want a laid back cautious temperament. Some breeders use an outside person to temperament test or evaluate the litter for show/breeding prospects, while others, who have more experience, may do this themselves. Most breeders will listen to your preferences, and if possible they will attempt to place a puppy of your choice with your family. The most important thing to remember is “It is not the outside of the dog that is important, it is the temperament that matters most”.
What makes a dog show quality or pet quality? The difference between show and pet quality can be very minimal. A low tail set, a lighter eye, smaller bone, misaligned teeth, or a less then perfect shoulder or rear angles. An average litter can expect to have a couple show dogs, and the remainder quality pets. An “All Show Quality” litter is rare. Please keep in mind what one breeder may consider show quality, another breeder may feel is pet quality, and vice versa.
The breeder wants me to show my puppy. What does that involve? First, unless you truly think you are interested in showing and understand the requirements, do not promise the breeder (or sign a contract requiring showing) you will do so. The cost of showing a dog to his championship using a professional handler can range from $3000 to $10,000 or more. While your dog is being shown you must make every effort to keep your dog in good condition. He must be in good weight and muscle and you must take special care with his hair so that it does not become matted or damaged. The better condition your dog is in, the better trained he is, the quicker he will finish his championship. Plan on your dog being away most weekends for a few months. If your handler lives far away then your dog must stay with him for the duration of time to finish his championship. If a breeder promises you a puppy and requires it to be shown, think long and hard before agreeing to do so. If it is not something you are interested in, explain that to the breeder and move on. Don’t make a promise you are not sure you can keep. Many breeders will place a show potential puppy in your home if you are possibly interested in showing, then if you change your mind you are not required to show the dog to his championship. A good breeder should be there to guide you. Do not make the decision to take a show puppy as the breeder dangles that puppy in front of you! This should not be a last minute high pressure situation.
I want a female and the breeder wants me to breed her. What should I do? If you are not interested in having anything more then a great family pet, do not agree to breeding your female. If the breeder insists, move on to another breeder. Do not make a decision to do something as involved as breeding while a puppy is being dangled in front of you. It is hard to say no when a cute puppy is being shown to you. Breeding takes a lot of time and responsibility (whether the bitch will have the puppies at your home or the breeders) so this decision should not be taken lightly. Never make a promise to breed unless you are 100% certain you can do it!
Why do some breeders require a deposit? Some breeders use a deposit as a measure of how committed you are to getting a puppy from them. Others use it to tie you to them so that you won’t look any further for a dog. What most people don’t realize is that by giving a deposit, the breeder is not necessarily guaranteeing you a puppy. Some breeders take a deposit before a litter is even born, thus they have no idea how many puppies they will have. Before giving a deposit you should always find out what a deposit implies. If you change your mind is the deposit returned? If the breeder doesn’t have a puppy they deam suitable. is your deposit returned? Many breeders require a deposit, others don’t. Just find out what the deposit means.
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Why do some breeders require an in-person visit? Just as much as a breeder should want to meet you, you should want to meet them, their dogs, and see where the puppies are raised. The breeder wants to meet you and your family to make sure that you understand what the breed is about. To see if your wants and needs are realistic as far as what a PWD is in energy, temperament, and grooming requirements. They want to know what type of pup would best suit your family. Please remember, just as they are interviewing you, you should be interviewing them! Make sure their dogs are clean, happy, and healthy. That they are forthright with information and seem knowledgeable about the breed. Most breeders, whether they have an upcoming litter or not should be happy to have you over at a mutually convenient time to learn more about the breed. Please remember this is not a “pet store” with hours of operation. Most breeders have family, work, and many other events that take up their days.
I just want a dog, why does all this health testing matter to me? Because, you want the best chance of having a healthy pet! Through the proper use of genetic testing a responsible breeder can guarantee that your puppy will not be affected by PRCD PRA, JDCM, CDDY, and GM-1. As well, they can significantly cut down the chance (though not eliminate) of having Hip Dysplasia. A responsible breeder uses available testing and pedigree research in hopes of producing happy, healthy dogs.
What is Limited Registration? Limited Registration is an option provided by the American Kennel Club (AKC) in an effort to help breeders enforce spay/neuter contracts. A dog that is placed on limited registration is not to be used for breeding. Any puppies produced by this dog will not be registered by the AKC. Most breeders use limited registration for any puppy being sold as a pet. If at a later point the new owner decides they may be interested in show and/or breeding their water dog, the breeder MAY reverse the limited registration and grant full registration. Please note that dogs on limited registration can do ALL performance events (Agility, Obedience, Water Work, etc.).
I work away from home 8 hours a day. Can I still get a puppy? Yes, as long as you make some changes to your schedule when your puppy is young. I would suggest making arrangements to go home at lunchtime, or if that is not possible, hire a dog walker to come in mid-day. You must also adjust your schedule to make time for you and your puppy for training, playing, and socialization.
Why do so many breeders require a fenced yard? Because a fully fenced (at least 5 foot) in yard is a safe yard! PWDs are very curious, if you turn your back for just a second they have gone off exploring. Some breeders will make an exception if you use invisible fencing (not optimal) or make other arrangements.
Why does the breeder require me to sign a contract? Most breeders place their puppies on a written contract. This contract is an agreement between you and the breeder. Some breeders may have a three or four page contract while others may use a simple one page contract. Please read the contract fully and ask questions. The contract is really as good and honest as the people signing it. Items in a good contract may include health guarantees, the requirement of spaying/neutering (a specific age may be specified), and the requirement that the puppy be returned to the breeder if they are unable to keep it. A show breeding contract should be much more involved.
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In conclusion, the best way to find the right breeder and right puppy is to do your research, meet and speak to lots of different breeders, and pet owners, and be open and honest about what your family wants in a puppy and what your lifestyle is like. There are many truly great PWD breeders out there.
The responsibility lies with you to make that determination. Take your time. Hopefully your PWD will be a loved member of your family for the next 12 - 14 years.
Living with a PWD
The following information has been generously shared by Kris Cofiell of CnSand(reg) Portuguese Water Dogs.
While there is nothing like being owned by a PWD...this energetic breed is NOT for everyone.
The PWD is prized for its energy and stamina, it is not a breed that is known for lying quietly at your feet for hours on end. While a PWD certainly has some down time, he needs to be an active part of your family. If left alone for long periods of time, or ignored, he can become quite destructive. PWDs excel at agility, obedience, water work and just about anything else you ask of them. They take readily to training. Which is highly recommended as an untrained PWD can be quite a handful.
The temperament of the PWD can vary significantly from breeder to breeder and dog to dog. Some can be very headstrong and if allowed will challenge his owner for dominance. This type of dog does best with an experienced owner. Other dogs can be a bit soft or submissive. This dog will try as hard as they can to please you. He does not take well to harsh corrections or your displeasure. This dog does best with someone who will help build his confidence without sheltering him from the world. Most PWDs are more middle-of-the-road. Outgoing and fun, somewhat bratty, and willing to please.
The PWD is often referred to as being mouthy. Mouthy does not mean aggressive, or that the dog is prone to biting, but to his habit of always having something in his mouth. A PWD must have access to appropriate toys. He must be taught acceptable behavior, what is his to chew on and what is not to be chewed on. The PWD puppy MUST be taught not to nip his family. Like most puppies he will grab your pants leg as you walk by, or nibble your fingers. A firm “AHHH AHHH” followed by giving the pup an appropriate chew toy works wonderfully if the owner is consistent.
Please note that as a breed that was used for WORK, the PWD can be an independent thinker. If he does not receive direction and training from his owner he may make inappropriate decisions when it comes to protecting you and your property. PWD owners must be vigilant in monitoring their dog’s behavior to make sure that inappropriate reactions are not displayed. If they are, intervention through retraining and management are very necessary.
The Myth of Hypoallergenic Dogs
Those with allergies MAY find that they are able to tolerate a PWD as they are classified as non-shedding (they lack an undercoat). Please keep in mind that NO dog is non-allergenic and/or completely non-shedding. Those with allergies to dogs should spend time with PWDs for at least a few hours. Once you determine that you will not have a severe reaction to the dog, allow him to sit in your lap, lick you (some people are allergic to the dog’s saliva), and generally get up close and personal. I would suggest you visit two different homes (minimally) before determining a water dogs suitability for you. As for the non-shedding claim..the breed is low shed (some will drop more hair than others). You will find some hair around your house, on your clothes, and furniture, but it is vastly less than what is found from the majority of other dogs (those that are double coated). The better groomed (brushed, bathed, and neatly trimmed) you keep your dog, the less likely you will have allergy and shedding issues.
Grooming Requirements:
Typically a PWD needs to be brushed thoroughly on a weekly basis. A total grooming to include a complete brushing, trimming of toenails, and trimming/shaving of hair should be done every 4 to 8 weeks. The duration of time between grooming is determined by the length of coat that the owner wishes to keep their dog in. The shorter the coat, the less coat care is required. The longer the coat the more prone it will be to matting. PWDs can be bathed weekly if desired.